Orhaniye Bay: A Hidden Paradise for Sailors on Turkey's Turquoise Coast

Dear readers, in this article we wanted to take you to a cove from Hisarönü Gulf. We are in Orhaniye, the most sheltered location at the end of the Gulf, which protects itself relatively well compared to other gulfs.

I first saw Orhaniye in 1995. In fact, during a summer rain pouring down like from a pitcher, we had washed our children in the middle of the cove, on deck.

There were one or two piers, Martı Marina at the entrance was almost like a quay, we had only refueled. Crystal clear sea, unspoiled nature, abundant pine scent.

As the years pass, the developing maritime tourism manifests itself in Orhaniye with uncontrolled growth, as it does everywhere. Although this region takes its share of negative impact with a slower momentum compared to our country's coasts, there is a visible deterioration. Uncontrolled pier construction, yachts staying in the sheltered magnificent cove for months without going out, untreated streams flowing into the cove, pollution pushed to the end of the cove by the generally northerly wind...

We are second to none as a nation in cutting the branch we're sitting on. The music and announcement sounds from the daily tour boats departing from Orhaniye are the cherry on top.

Since 2001, we wanted to turn our faces to the sea, for amateur sailors to multiply, for the sector to expand, for everyone to benefit from our paradise corners, for those earning their bread in the sector to increase, and we made publications in every medium.

We multiplied, we expanded, and we've come to a very dangerous threshold. As we grow, we pollute the environment; as we expand, we're reaching a point where we threaten our living spaces. There's no self-control; we always expect control from the state...

If we continue to pollute our country's paradise corners at this rate, unfortunately within a few years we won't have any bays left to talk about.

Uncontrolled practices like our fishing sector, trying to get by day to day, are producing today's consequences.

The state remains a spectator and addresses the issue with a few feeble implementations, and with an attitude of "solutions-like," these matters will not be resolved. We are witnessing one of the best examples of this in the paradise of Orhaniye. Alarm bells are ringing for Orhaniye, which displays various charms to our cameras with its balanced colors, light, and humidity ratio.

The indispensable "Kız Kumu" (Girl's Sand) of the cove is under threat. The water of the cove is on the verge of becoming so polluted that it will be almost impossible to enter. So what will happen? Is it necessary to destroy the sea in order to benefit from it, to live it? Is it necessary to pollute it mercilessly in order to make money from the sea?

Along with our article, we spoke with those who were born and raised there, those who came to live in Orhaniye from their birthplaces, and all those who, without denying the negative developments, see them and struggle to produce and implement projects toward solutions, about what kind of place this paradise is, whose images you also see.

First of all, although it's not my usual habit, I'm going to the village headman. Because he's not like the headmen we're accustomed to.

Young, investigative, creative and combative.

CEM DİNÇ

"Orhaniye is the most beautiful paradise corner of the Bozburun peninsula. A port of call that sailors admire. A well-known town that has opened its doors to world tourism with the natural formation of Kız Kumu.

Orhaniye means Kız Kumu. We became known through it. The Orhaniye picture is completed with other beauties as well.

The formation of Kız Kumu is told to tourists through legends. In reality, this is a natural formation. It consists of red sands brought by two streams flowing from Orhaniye center and Keçibükü.

18 years ago, this formation had a walking path on it, but now unfortunately it has collapsed to a water level that reaches up to the knees of walkers. This collapse has reached a dangerous dimension, unfortunately. Every day, thousands of people walk around crushing these sands. A restriction must definitely be imposed on this. Most importantly; since the stream that carries sand to the formation has been blocked with boundary stones, the natural filling doesn't work over time. Daily tour boats lean against the sand and allow their passengers to embark and disembark from shore to shore. The propeller movements here also cause the sand to disperse.

A mooring buoy system must be installed in the bay, and yachts should tie up to these instead of anchoring. The duration of stay for moored yachts in our bay also needs to be subject to certain regulations. Boats that stay for months or even winter over with people living aboard also threaten the bay.

The piers in our village have developed in an uncontrolled manner and have virtually reached marina capacity. This bay cannot sustain such density. If it is to be done, mooring places should be built by the state through an organized approach and kept under control.

I don't think even the existing piers with operating licenses are making a profit. Electricity is free, water is free, mooring is free. I can't believe this. This issue can be resolved with a transfer pier built by the state without entering Kiz Kumu from outside. Otherwise, Orhaniye waters will become increasingly polluted.

Without Kiz Kumu there is no Orhaniye. Without Orhaniye, an important branch of Marmaris tourism is lost.

Our businesses should re-examine themselves. Alternatives should be brought to the same menus, plastic chairs and tables should not be present in this corner of paradise in my opinion. The government should listen to us, to its people, and we should decide together on what needs to be done.”

Yes, the headman speaks bitter but true facts. Now I want to visit a seafarer, musician family who fell under the spell of the town and gave up their big city life at a young age to settle here.

The Demirbaş family continues their life among their boats, houses within gardens, and music studios.

You can see them both at sea and in natural habitats throughout the region. Nature lovers. Levent tells the story.

ÖZGE-LEVENT DEMİRBAŞ

I first studied Marine Electronics and then pursued a career in Sound Engineering. My wife Özge is a Food Engineer and she was serving in the Naval Forces. In 2008, Özge went to Marmaris Aksaz for duty for about a year, which established our first connection with this place.

We were captivated by the magic of the Mediterranean and Aegean, and in 2010 we bought our first boat, an 11m sailboat called “DENİSE” which we still use. In 2011, we completed its modification in Kalamış and brought it to Marmaris-Orhaniye.

Back then, while splitting the year between Istanbul and Marmaris, the magic of the sea, the friendships we established here, and the natural beauties prevailed, and in 2014, I also moved my business from Istanbul to Marmaris.

The sea is a passion, and many people cannot make radical decisions because they cannot completely disconnect from city life. We owe this decision to the fact that we were able to continue our work.

We believe that living by the sea makes us more energetic and peaceful people. Usually, our friends living in the city say they can do such a lifestyle after retirement; we consider ourselves lucky that we were able to do it much earlier.

I closed my music studio in Istanbul and set up a new music studio for myself in the garden of our house in Orhaniye; I can work much more productively than I could in Istanbul. The sea, natural beauties, music, good friends, and this geography we live in together is the only place we want to be, I can say.

Özge had come here for duty, but we can say this turned out to be a reward. Once we tasted the beauties of being here, we became boat owners earlier than our life plan. Once we became boat owners, we started being here frequently, and eventually, we became completely locals. We are very happy to be from Orhaniye.”

We take our leave from the Demirtaş family and meet with Nafiz Türkmen. From Muğla, he came to Orhaniye years ago and settled. To the question “Have you ever thought about going somewhere else?” he is such a friend of Orhaniye that he says “It never crosses my mind.”

NAFİZ TÜRKMEN

"I came here 23 years ago from Muğla center and settled down. I worked as a manager at Martı Marina for 7 years. With its magnificent nature, excellent climate, and friendly people, it is a true paradise.

My brother was an asthma patient, he also settled here. After one year, he no longer needed to use his asthma medications. The air is that excellent.

We live in the village together with the affectionate villagers. It is a safe place where you can leave your car door unlocked.

I take photographs. The light and colors here are fascinating. You can rarely find such harmony anywhere else.

I practically became a nature photographer. These beauties caused me to expand my camera equipment.

On Saturday, the local market is set up. Everyone brings and sells their products. Milk, yogurt, olives, cheese, vegetables and fruits. We don't realize how time passes."

At the end of the cove, there are a few wooden piers where boats moor. Sometimes demolished by the state, sometimes attempted to be expanded by their owners. Behind these piers, you can also find their restaurants. In summer months, it has now become difficult to leave your boat here for a few days and go. Because generally the owners of these piers make their living from restaurant income, daily mooring fees are not enough to sustain them, and they don't ask for such a fee anyway. Of course, in winter months they are almost completely full. Many boats winter here. The owners know whether their insurance is valid or not during these winter layups. We are going to one of those piers. A familiar face, worked at Martı Marina for years, from Orhaniye.

ERDAL AYDOĞAN

“I was born and raised here. I served at Martı Marina for 9 years. Now I provide mooring line service at pier restaurants. 14-15 yachts can berth at the pier we serve. We provide electricity and water. Our guests can find everything within a 100-meter radius from where they moor their boats. We have comfortable seating areas, showers, toilets and our restaurant. We also provide hotel service. There is a market next to us. We strive to help guests rest and resupply.

There are other facilities around us providing the same service. Some have larger capacity than ours, some smaller. Our guests leave Orhaniye with a smile. This is the most important element that makes us happy. How fortunate we are to be born in Orhaniye and to live here.

Then I go to see Reşit Bey, who migrated here later, settled and manages a small business. Among the greenery, within the arbors. Besides, it is not possible to find a place in Orhaniye any other way. Green literally bursts forth.

REŞİT YAVUZ

“12 years ago I decided to leave Istanbul. For 2 years I searched for the most suitable place to live between Datça-Bozburun. After a long and tiring journey, we arrived in Orhaniye late at night. I could barely sleep due to fatigue, eating and drinking on top of it, and the late hour. I opened my eyes at 06:30 in the morning. Purified from all exhaustion, I woke up upright. The pine scents entering my room sharpened the invitation and I decided to settle here.

I made my second marriage from this village and became the village's brother-in-law. I had large restaurants in Istanbul. I opened a small one here too. We generally cook home-style meals and we are very happy. I get along very well with the young people. I don't use a watch, I estimate more or less anyway. I don't know the days. Every day is Sunday for me anyway.”

Yes, we were right in the middle of paradise in this article. Thinking once more that we must protect it, care for it, and hand it over to the next generations as we found it.

Stay Healthy.